Small engine flywheel tools

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Small Engine Cylinder Tools. Small Engine Electrical Testing Tools. Small Engine Flywheel Tools. Small Engine Gear Puller. Small Engine Main Bearing Tools. Small Engine Measurement Tools. Small Engine Piston Tools. Order Part Briggs And Stratton Flywheel Puller This flywheel puller is designed to work specifically with Billet aluminum motor sports flywheels only. Get Help! Recommend This Page. Tell a Friend "Two Oregon 9" edger blades. Could not be found locally in South Florida.

Thanks for having them at a great price. A very easy transaction. This is a two- or three-jaw type puller. Engine manufacturers specifically recommend against using this type of puller.

However, in many situations, it works nicely. It's your choice. Rather than pulling on screws threaded into the flywheel near its center, this puller catches the outside diameter of the flywheel. Use a jaw type puller only on flywheels that are constructed solidly enough to handle the stress at the circumference, and only with great care.

Apply only a modest amount of force to the forcing screw. Usually this is enough. A few taps with a hammer on the end of the forcing screw often helps. Flywheels with ring gears for electric start , as in 9 , are not good candidates for a jaw type puller because of the risk of damaging the ring gear. For engines that use a flywheel bolt rather than a nut, you can place a socket, or other object, just smaller than the flywheel hole on top of the crankshaft end and strike it with a hammer while prying upward on the flywheel see 9.

Tecumseh flywheels used on homeowners' lawn mowers, such as shown in 10 , are also not good candidates because of their light construction. The force applied to the outside of the flywheel will easily bend, crack or otherwise damage the flywheel. The tool is simply a piece of hex stock with a blind hole drilled and tapped to the correct thread. It protects the end of the crankshaft and distributes the striking force over the full length of the crankshaft threads.

After removing the flywheel nut, washer, and starter cup, thread the appropriate flywheel knock-off tool on the crankshaft until it bottoms out, then back-off one complete turn. Using a large screwdriver, lift upward under the flywheel with sufficient force to take up the crankshaft endplay.

If necessary, rotate the flywheel a half turn and repeat until it loosens. This method of flywheel removal has some drawbacks. It is quite easy to damage the crankshaft with an errant blow, bending the shaft or crushing the threads.

The flywheel may be damaged by prying on it too hard. Be certain that your prying tool is clear of any charging stator under the flywheel.

Avoid the flywheel ring gear. Some Tecumseh engines notably some two-cycle engines have a ball bearing at the flywheel end of the crankshaft which may be driven out of position when striking the knock-off tool. To reposition the bearing, strike the opposite end of the crankshaft with a rawhide mallet or with a hammer and a block of wood.

You should be able to feel the crankshaft endplay. Similar to using a knock-off tool, you can thread the flywheel nut to be flush with the top of the crankshaft and while prying upward on the flywheel, strike the top of the crankshaft to pop the flywheel free.

One might even omit the nut.